Appliances: Running Costs, Ratings and What Actually Saves Money

An appliance's purchase price is the smaller number. A machine used daily for a decade costs far more to run than to buy, and the cheapest one on the shelf is frequently the most expensive to own.

Working out the real cost

Energy labels state annual consumption in kilowatt hours, based on a standard usage pattern. Multiply that by your electricity rate to get an annual running cost, then by the years you expect to keep it, and add the purchase price.

Compare that total, not the price. A more efficient machine costing more upfront frequently wins, and sometimes does not — the calculation tells you which, and it depends on your rate and how heavily you use it.

The stated figure assumes a standard cycle count. If you run far more or fewer loads than the standard, scale it accordingly.

Reading the rest of the label

• Water consumption, which matters if you are metered.
• Noise level in decibels — genuinely important in open-plan homes and flats, and a difference of a few decibels is more noticeable than it sounds.
• Capacity, which is measured under standard conditions and does not always reflect real loads.
• Spin speed on washing machines, which affects how wet clothes are afterwards and therefore how much tumble drying costs.

Efficiency ratings have been rescaled in some markets, so an older label and a newer one are not directly comparable. Compare consumption figures rather than letters.

Where the running cost actually is

For washing machines, most of the energy goes on heating water — so washing cooler is the biggest saving available regardless of which machine you own. For tumble dryers, the technology matters enormously: heat pump dryers use substantially less energy than vented or condenser types, at a higher purchase price and a longer cycle.

Fridges and freezers run continuously, which makes their efficiency figure more significant than anything used occasionally. They also perform badly when set too cold, packed too full, or placed next to a heat source.

Repair rather than replace

Some parts fail predictably and are cheap. Door seals, filters, hoses, belts and pumps are frequently replaceable at a fraction of a new machine. What makes this possible is parts availability, which varies enormously between brands.

Before buying, check how long the manufacturer commits to supplying spare parts, and whether independent repairers can get them. This is increasingly published and is one of the better predictors of total lifetime cost.

Installation and fit

Measure the space including the depth with the door open, the required ventilation gaps, and the route into the kitchen. Check the door hinge side and whether it can be reversed. Check the plumbing and electrical connections needed, and whether the retailer's delivery includes installation and removal of the old machine — those are usually separate paid services.

Before you order

Calculate the ten-year total, not the purchase price. Check the noise figure if the machine is near a living space. Check spare parts availability and the warranty length. And check what the delivery service actually includes, since disconnection, installation and disposal are frequently extra.